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Article and
photos by Jim Bacon
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Well,
as we are all destined to say, "Hmmm, what can I do to my
TJ next or possibly first?" And of course, usually
the first minor project is a BL (body lift) in order to
get that extra height we have always wanted or needed to
in order to get new tires on so they will not rub. I
purchased the Performance Accessories 3" BL for roughly
$68, which isn't a bad deal. Now since the
installation, the BL was reduced in size to 1 1/2" and new
hardware was purchased.
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What You Will Need
• Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift Kit
• Hi-Lift Jack or bottle Jack with concrete blocks or if
your lucky enough to have one, and hydraulic floor jack ;-)
• 2x4 piece of wood (possibly several pieces)
• PB Blaster (highly recommended)
• Standard Socket Set
• Socket Extension (10" or 12")
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• Utility Knife
Installation
**BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, PLEASE READ THE DIRECTIONS
CAREFULLY. Performance
Accessories
provides detailed instructions.
I suggest reading these instruction several times before
installation.
1. Since I live on the
Gulf of Mexico, I hit all my body mount bolts with
PB blaster a few
hours before I performed the install. Depending upon
your location and year of jeep, you may want to use the PB
blaster a day before the install project.
2. Before you
start touching any bolts on your jeep, be sure to park on a
level surface and chock the front or rear wheels.
Because I am paranoid person, I did both front and rear
wheels for extra safety. Safety is paramount!
3. I started
my project out by removing the overflow bottle for my
radiator. Then started removing the screws for the fan
shroud, then removed the bolts for the radiator. The
shroud & radiator will rest against the fan, while you
perform your install. Also, remove the plastic Jeep
cover on front, otherwise you will here bend and creak, and
make all sorts of noises.
4. Loosen but
DO NOT remove all the body mount bolts. There are 11 total:
(1) up front, (3) on each side, (2) between the rear tires
just in front of the gas tank next to the shocks and (2)
located at the rear corners of your Jeep.
5. This is the
perfect time, if you haven't already, to put all your bolts,
washers and pucks in all the areas in which they will be
installed, so you don't have to worry about doing a search
when your rig is in the air, especially with a 3" BL, it is
cranked up there!
6. Since, the 3" BL
required more detailed instruction and modifications for the
driver side, I started on the passenger side. Remove
all the body mount bolts on the passenger side and the front
center bolt only. When this is done, get your Hi-Lift,
bottle nose jack w/ concrete blocks, or hydraulic floor jack
and don't forget the 2x4's (I used a hydraulic floor jack
with 3 pieces of 2x4 - so I will be referring my method in
this install). Place the 2x4 pieces on your
floor jack and slowly start jacking it up. Make sure
the 2x4's and centered on the jack and securely lift the
body off the frame. Start putting the pucks in place
and put in the new bolts, but barely have them in there,
because you do not want tightened bolts when you jack the
other side, it will screw up your passenger side bolts and
who knows what else. When you get to the body mount
under the tub near the shocks, this is when you want your
socket extension, it will save time and be extremely easier
to tighten the bolts.
7. Okay, when
you have you have finished putting all the pucks in place on
the passenger side, including the front, slowly let down
your jack. This is also a good time to double check
your bolts, to make sure they are loose fitting and not
tight.
8. Driver
Side Install - BEFORE you
start jacking up your driver side, there are several things
you need to take apart, otherwise you will rip off hoses,
lines etc...
9.
Okay, so now that I scared the heck out of you, let me do it
again. DO NOT BE NEAR AN OPEN FLAME OR BE SMOKING
during this portion! I recommend using a standard
Phillips screw driver, not electric or battery powered,
because sparks are sometimes generated when using these two
types. First, I unscrewed the (4) screws
that hold your gas tank outer cover. Next, you will to
unscrew the (4) smaller screws that hold the gas cap portion
to the outer cover. Once you get the (4) smaller
screws out, remove your gas cap, so that you remove the
outer cover. Put the cap back on for now, so that gas
fumes will not be escaping your tank.
10. Next, you will need to
unscrew the (4) bolts that hold the body bracket for the
transfer case shifter. This is located on the drivers
side, under the carpet on the hump.
11.
Now, you can move forward under the tire wheel on the
passenger side and unbolt the mount for the steering link.
(picture of this will be posted soon to better clarify
this step.)
12.
Double check that you removed all bolts and screws that hold
your fan shroud and radiator in place.
13.
Repeat Step 6.
14.
After you have the pucks in place, you will need to remove
the gas filler hose. It is easier to remove the
filler hose after the pucks are in place, otherwise, you
will have a hard time unscrewing and removing it, BUT be
sure to not put your hands between the body and the frame,
even if the the pucks are in place, remember safety is
paramount! There are two hose clamps on the gas filler
hose. These are located right near the gas tank, in
which hold the filler hose in place. Looses the clamps
and twist and pull the filler hose off the tank, and please
remember, do not be smoking or be near an open flame, the
gas fumes will be escaping. You can place two rags in
the holes, but do not over stuff as you do not want gas on
the rags either, or accidentally have the rags fall into
your tank, then you will opened that can of worms....
15.
Your kit will come with (2) metal pipe hose extenders and
(2) hose clamps. This is when you will use your
utility knife. You will cut your filler hose midway,
right after the bend on the straight portion on both the
small and large hose. After you have this done, you
will insert the two hose extenders and clamps. Tighten
the clamps, so that your filler hose has retained it
original pattern or flow. Install filler hose back on
tank. Now you can screw the gasp covers back on as
before.
16. Time for the transfer
case relocation bracket installation. You will attach
this to the bracket as shown in the picture. This is
when you want to have a buddy helping put the bolts back in
the from inside the jeep, otherwise you will have a heck of
a time getting the bracket to stay in place while trying to
put a bolt in from inside, trust me, I found out the hard
way!
17.
Now move forward to install the steering link lift bracket.
This is very simple. You may also notice from the
steering link, the boot may have shifted down.
18. At this point,
tighten all (11) body mounting bolts.
19. Your kit
will come with radiator drop brackets. Some people
will use the brackets to only lower their fan shroud, but I
elected to lower everything. It takes a small bit of
time, but time well spent.
20. Reconnect the
plastic jeep cover on the front bumper and that should be
it! This is a very simple to do it yourself mod and I
did it in just over an 60 minutes.
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PRODUCT INFORMATION
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Performance
Accessories
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