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Article and
photos by Jim Bacon
  
Well, as
you guessed it, it will comer sooner than later and that is a suspension
lift. We are all destined for this modification. The
difference is what type of lift, manufacturer, etc...
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What You Will Need
• Rough Country Stage II 4" Suspension Lift Kit
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• Hi-Lift Jack, bottle Jack and hydraulic floor jack
• 2x4 piece of wood (several pieces)
• PB Blaster (highly recommended)
• Standard Socket Set
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• Socket Extension (10" or 12")
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• Complete Wrench Set
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• Electric / Portable Drill with Set of Bits
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• Air Compressor w/ attachments
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• Air Ratchet
• (4) Jack Stands (the taller the better)
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• (1) buddy, the more the merrier
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• Back to the tools; bring the kitchen sink too!
You'll need anything and everything on a few parts!
Installation
**BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, PLEASE READ THE DIRECTIONS
CAREFULLY. Rough Country provides detailed
instructions, but does lack in a few areas, so I highly
recommend reading these
instruction several times before, during and after
installation. Yes after, you never know what you could
have missed. Or you can end up like me and go, "Doh, that's where
that extra bolt goes".
DISCLAIMER/WARNING NOTICE:
I am in no way a mechanic much less a certified one. I
am a simple Jeeper with the "let's see how this works"
attitude, plus with not a lot of cash just sitting around to
spend on my jeep, I choose to learn by the "OJT" (On the Job
Training) approach, compliments of my years w/ the USN.
Okay, with that said, let's jack that baby up!
1. Since I live on the
Gulf of Mexico, I hit few bolts that looked like they may
give a hard time with
PB blaster a few
hours before I performed the install. Depending upon
your location and year of jeep, you may want to use the PB
blaster a day before the install project. Sometimes PB
Blaster isn't even needed, as most of my bolts came off
easily.
2. Before you
start touching anything on your jeep, be sure to park on a
level surface and chock the front or rear wheels.
Safety is paramount!
3. According
to the Rough Country instruction they want you to start out
with the Front end first. I decided to do the
opposite, and go with the rear end, because the front end
was more complicated, and me getting my hands wet with my
first install, I wanted to ease into my "can of worms".
4. Place a
jack stand by each rear tire, so you do not have to stop
while the Jeep is suspended in the air. Jack up the
rear of the vehicle by placing your hydraulic jack under the
rear differential and remove the tires and wheels and place
the jack stands on each rear frame rail to support your
jeep. Also remove the shock's and sway bar links. (My
kit required the use of the stock shock hardware, so don't
toss your away, just in case)
5. Now, unbolt
the rear track rod from the axle and secure that out of the
way.
6. Once the tires are
off and the rear is supported by the jack stands, lower the
rear axle as low as it can go and remove the stock rear coil
springs. In some cases, you may need a spring
compressor to get your springs out, but mine came out with
no problems. If you do have to give a little kick,
don't forget, your Jeep is on jack stands, it can sway abit,
so always check your jack stands while working.
7. Now it's time to install the
track bar relocation bracket in the stock location with thee
supplied hardware in your kit. I had to drill mine out
a bit to 5/16 for the new bolt. But do not install the track
bar just yet...
 
8. Next,
I had to remove the bolts that hold the upper control arm on
on the axle.
9.
Okay, it's
time to install the rear coil springs. This is
when you need that trusty spring compressor. Luckily a
buddy of mine had one just sitting around, otherwise I would
have wasted time trying to get them in, and ended up at the
local Auto Zone. When using the spring compressor,
don't go and tightening one side way down, otherwise you
will tattoo your forehead with the spring. Tighten
each side slowly and try and be as uniform as you can in
compression. The spring compressor bolts will shift a
bit on you, but that is the norm, just take your time.
And seriously, the spring can be very damaging to your
health if you don't compress it correctly. Okay,
when compressed, put on the new springs, decompress the
springs in the original stock location and your set.
Now you can install your track bar in it's new bracket.
10. Grab your new shocks,
boots and bushings, etc... Install the bushings and boots on
the new shocks and install.
11.
Reinstall the rear wheels and tighten to factory specs.
12.
Now it's time for the FRONT END Install
13.
Place a
jack stand by each front tire, so you do not have to stop
while the Jeep is suspended in the air. Jack up the
front of the vehicle by placing your hydraulic jack under
the front differential and remove the tires and wheels and
place the jack stands on each front frame rail to support
your jeep. Also remove the shock's and sway bar links.
(My kit required the use of the stock shock hardware, so
don't toss your away, just in case)
14.
Lower the axle and remove the front coil springs. This
time it did require a few swift kicks; so be careful your
Jeep is on jack stands. You will also r4move the stock
lower control arms.
15.
Repeat step 9 as applicable.
16. Install the new track rod extension bracket
in the factory location. You will have to drill an
3/8" hole for the new bolt.
17.
Repeat step 10 & 11
18. Now time to go back
to rear of the vehicle. You will install the new sway
bar links and hardware.
19. A brake
line bracket is supplied with the kit for the rear of the
Jeep.
20. TRANSFER CASE drop
time
21. Using a floor
jack, place it under the skid plate for support.
22. Loosen all the
bolts on the skid plate (6) in total. Once you have
them slightly loose, go ahead and remove the driver side and
insert the TC drop bracket and install the new bolts with
the kit. Now do the same for the other side. This is
another time when a friend is handy, because we had to use a
bit of pushing power to get the bolts to line up in the
holes.
23.
Now that
you have everything installed, go back and double check that
everything is connected. During my install I
disconnected a few things, and went back for a double check
and made sure they were re-installed. Make sure all
lines and hoses are not stressed. I jumped in the
driver seat to test the steering towards right/left and my
buddy checked to see if anything was going to be in the way
when wheels were maxed in each direction.
24. Like I said, I
am paranoid, and not being a mechanic, the following day I
went to 4 Wheel Parts and had a Post Lift Inspection (well
worth the $52). Everything checked out perfect.
Prior to this, I went to a local shop for a Front end
Alignment as well, because your alignment will be
out in left field after the install.
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PRODUCT INFORMATION
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Rough
Country Suspension
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