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Article &
Photos by Jim Bacon
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Once you go Long Arm, there is no turning back
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Tools required:
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> Metric sockets:
13, 15, 18 Standard sockets: ½, 9/16, and13/16
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> Metric
box wrenches: 13, 15, 18 Standard box wrenches 9/16,
13/16
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> Hammer, pliers, 2
medium Phillips head screwdrivers , T-55 torx, Drill with
3/8 and ½ inch drill bits
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You will also need:
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> Red locktite,
grease, jack, jack stands
and most importantly a certified welder, or
a welder you trust, but RockKrawler and
Off-Road Gear Magazine recommend a certified
welder.
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When we began a search for a Long Arm kit for
the WJ, there were several to choose from with varying
prices. We chose RockKrawler and gave them a call and
ordered the 6" Severe Duty Long Arm lift kit. It soon
arrived at our door, and man did it, it came in 8 boxes and
heavy. The control arms are made of solid stock and
are stout. We were lucky enough to have use of a
offroad shop, provided by Monster Off Road of Texas City,
Texas. We were able to use the lift which makes life
easier on the installation, but be rest assured, this can be
done with your floor jacks and jack stands.
Installation:
Rather than write a step by step of the
installation, we feel it is best of a review of the varying
steps which will assist you on yours.
First thing you want to do is ask yourself,
how fast do I need to get this lift on? If you are
solo or have a extra set of hands and doing this in your
garage or drive-way expect it too take a full 2-3 days.
We had several hands, but just ran out of time and it took 1
1/2 days, only because of a few stubborn areas which I will
cover in this article.
Okay, now it's time to read those
instructions several times before doing anything, the more
you make yourself aware of what needs to be done, the more
it makes sense when you start the install. The
instructions with the kit are good, but the photos could be
larger or clearer or in color, so sometimes when referring
to the photos, it can be tough, but overall the instructions
are well written.
Since we had a lift, we got the rig lifted
and went ahead and removed the tires, because they would
need to go eventually. The first step of the install
is to lower the transfer case with a support and install the
spacers and the new front control arm brackets. Now
locate where the rear control arm brackets will be placed
and weld. Now, have your welder weld the front and
rear control brackets in place. Well, that's all the
welding that needs to be done, now it's time for the front
end.
Support the front axle and remove shocks,
sway bar links, track bar UCA/LCA's and springs. Now
you will install the control arms. The control arms
all have new RockKrawler Joints integrated, but you will
need to use the correct shoulder spacers when installing.
The RK lift requires that you rebuild the
control arm mount on the axle to a Krawler Joint. So
you will need to remove the rubber bushing, it can be easy
or you will need to break out the BFH. Either way,
remove it. There are two ways of installing the new
Krawler joint, you either drill and tap for a grease fitting
or heavily grease the joint by hand and do the install.
The next part can be time consuming, because
you will need to add the torque arm bracket, and will need
to line upon the bracket and support place and drill and tap
the sub frame on both sides. Not too difficult more
time consuming than anything. Okay, that being done,
install the torque arm. Install the track bar.
You will want to loosen the break lines and
either replace or leave loose, but we recommend replacing
with longer lines, because heavy articulation will more than
likely win.
Okay, install the springs with the retainer
clips, shocks and RK's sway bar disconnects. and the front
end should be done.
Rear install:
As with the front, support the rear axle and
remove shocks, sway bar links, track bar UCA/LCA's and
springs. Now you will install the control arms.
The control arms all have new RockKrawler Joints integrated,
but you will need to use the correct shoulder spacers when
installing.
Remove the break lines from the rear
triangulated link which is located on top of the rear axle,
in case you haven't figured this out by now.
OKAY, here is a pain in the ass part.
You will need to remove the tri-link from the rear axle.
Well, RK states the following:
Please note, Chrysler
discovered the use of locktite on these
fasteners and they are difficult to remove.
No
problem, right?! Well, that's what I
thought, the first bolt came off with a
little force, so now I am thinking this
should be easy. Well after fighting
two bolts for two hours, I was ready to take
the BFH to anything and everything in my
way! Two reasons why it is a pain,
obviously the locktite, but it's difficult
to get any good leverage because
the way the tri-link is under there.
So we took a torch and cut off one side of
the link and I was able tog et in there and
get the two bolts off with a air ratchet and
a few &*^+*^&%^% words. Man, sometimes
you forget fire is your friend, when in
doubt torch it. We did actually try to
sawzall it, but are damn blades couldn't cut
butter, time for some new ones. Okay
off the soap box.
Install
the lower control arms. Install the
new cradle on the axle and install the new
upper arms. Okay, install the springs
with the retainer clips, shocks and RK's
sway bars and now the rear end should be
done. As with the front end,
make sure the axle is aligned, if not adjust
the control arms not allowing more than 2"
of thread to show.
Make
sure everything is tightened to required
torque and do so again after 500 miles.
Take your rig to an alignment shop, because
it needs to be done and especially if your
steering looked like mine, it was upside
down, makes for a fun pucker ride.
Another thing to consider now is your
driveshaft. We will be installing new
shafts from Precision Shaft Technologies and
will give more details of their drive shafts
and company.
Photos:
Since hurricane Rita, we had server problems
with an end result of losing all photos
taken during the installtion process.
We will try and get the rig on the lift at
Monster Off-Road and take detailed photos of
the process.
Here are a
few after shots of the rig as well as the
stock photo:
  
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PRODUCT INFORMATION
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- Rock Krawler
Suspension
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518-270-9822
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